Former Gucci designer Alessandro Michele puts on maximalist Paris ready-to-wear debut for Valentino

Alessandro Michele’s eagerly awaited ready-to-wear Paris Fashion Week debut at Valentino was unveiled in a setting that hinted at a transformation —  a living room in flux. Stools, ladders, and lamps shrouded beneath white blankets evoked a house renovation, signaling not just change, but a conscious revival of past glories. The scene, poetic and subdued, perfectly set the stage for a “maximalist-lite” spectacle that was equally haunted by history and illuminated by Michele’s unique flair.
The mood was set with haunting music and the steady beat of a drum, creating an ambiance charged with drama and anticipation. Michele, who made headlines earlier this year after being named the new creative director of Valentino, following his successful reign at Gucci, brought with him much of his recognisable style. Yet there was a distinctive evolution in his vision — less overtly ostentatious, but still unmistakably eclectic.
Feathers floated on hats, soft and playful. Lingerie peeked through delicate layers. Flowers, fortune tellers’ hats, sparkling embellishments — all coalesced into an eclectic wardrobe that carried a vintage feel. Michele, it seemed, was teasing apart the DNA of both houses he knows intimately: the exuberance of Gucci and the ethereal heritage of Valentino.
Some of the pieces felt familiar to longtime Valentino admirers: The feminine nipped-waist dress, the floppy floral gown with its tiered skirt, and the iconic Valentino red that made its dramatic entrance. Yet in Michele’s hands, these classics were playfully twisted — feathers replaced fur on a billowing stole, and the result was a softer, more modern take that eschewed excessive luxury.
Jared Leto was among the VIPs who sat in the front row, a testament to Michele’s continued draw among Hollywood’s elite. The designer, who had risen to international recognition by infusing Gucci with his beloved “Geek-Chic” aesthetic, seemed to bring a similar ethos to Valentino, though filtered through a more graceful, couture lens.
Throughout his tenure at Gucci, Michele was celebrated for prioritising his personal vision over the often suffocating codes of heritage houses, and Sunday’s show echoed that defiant spirit.